Eggs are the beginning of life. Human beings grow from fertilised eggs. Chickens lay eggs for procreation and its lucky for us that they do – they’re versatile, filling, delicious and nutritious. Its not often you have a food that you can apply all of those adjectives to.
So, eggs – that are the beginning of these strange lives we lead – are also the perfect beginning to the day. I often reminisce about all the wonderful breakfasts I’ve had in my time as well as mourning the disappointing ones. I also take pictures of the best examples for gluttonous posterity. To answer the title question, how do you like your eggs in the morning? – I like them any which way, but usually softly scrambled.
Above was a part of the most wonderful brunch I had obe sunny Sunday last summer at Ottolenghi Islington. We’d already filled up on toast and spreads but I still managed to push passed the full-barrier to mop the last blob of tomato.
This was inspired by a Gizzi Erskine recipe from Skinny Weeks and Weekend Feasts. Sweet potato mayo is like the sweet nectar of the Gods. Who’d have thunk? The sweet and slightly sour mayo is a perfect foil for the spicy chorizo, rich egg and the acidity from the tomatoes. Leftover mayo is also great just spread on bread, or just eaten from a spoon. I’m gross like that.
Dan Doherty is seemingly the don of Brunch. His Duck and Waffle is a great place to get eggs 24 hours a day in London. His latest book Toast Hash Roash Mash is also basically cover to cover brilliant brunch recipes. He had a recipe for Bacon Jam.. which was the first thing I cooked from the book. Imagine a cross between BBQ Sauce and a Conserve, but with bacon. Honestly, it’s incredible. Like the best example of sweet and salty. It turned a rather pedestrian breakfast of baked beans and a fried egg into something I’d pay for in an embarassingly hipster breakfast cafe.
There’s a little bit of Bacon Jam left in the above breakast.. and some overpriced but unbelievable black pudding I bought in Riverside Market along with some sourdough, from Riverside Sourdough.. and some XL eggs – scrambled with a healthy and hearty Irish portion of butter and a dab of creme fraiche for some French sophistcation.
I fucking love eggs. I sometimes fantasise about being a healthy clean eating vegan.. or ‘plant-based diet’ guru. I have cookbooks just about eggs.. and eggs being the start of most life on this planet. It seemed a fitting subject for this first post. Genesis, Chapter One. In the beginning, God probably started off with eggs, cooked any which way.